Still waiting on the rest of the custom wiring; security and remote lock/unlock and the rest of the interior wiring from VettAid. Meanwhile I've been installing what I can in preparation for my next test start. This time I plan to run complete systems tests; adjust the clutch, heater and radiator hoses for leaks, gauges, heater/ac controls, etc.
Things I got done today. Okay, call me anal, but I removed the lower firewall heat shields and lined them with thermal barrier from Eastwood and taped the edges with multi-purpose aluminum tape.. I figure it couldn't hurt and just might help keep some heat out of the cabin:
Heat shield re-installed on the driver side. |
The dash harness connects to the fuse box and connects through the firewall to the.... |
....stock engine harness (highly modified). |
Earlier this week I got a Motive pressure bleeder and tried to bleed the brakes. The rear calipers bled well. but I couldn't get the fronts to even flow brake fluid. I used the original proportioning valve and master cylinder (MC). Trying to save a few bucks, you know. Brake fluid is leaking from the fittings on the proportioning valve and even after over a day of leaving the bleeder fittings open and letting them gravity bleed still nothing flowing to the front calipers. I have a new valve and MC on order. Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to use the OEM style power booster or install the new Hydroboost unit I have. It will require additional hose making and routing into the power steering system since it uses pressure from the ps pump to assist the brakes.
Two Steps Back:
I wasn't comfortable with the heater hoses I made from the 7/16" Russell fuel line. I don't think they would supply adequate flow and the car designers had to have a reason for using different size hoses, 3/4" and 5/8". I originally used these hose fittings
and jury-rigged this set up to mate the Russell lines to the 3/4" and 5/8" heater core tubes. I am worried of the possibility of leaks here.
I went to NAPA and got these fittings and used Spectre heater hose in the correct ID.
Temporary clamps until I find some better ones. |
Also, I'm considering powder coating all the trim black. Well, who knew the two screws that attach the two outer top windshield frame chrome covers CAN'T BE REMOVED UNLESS THE #^##!%&;*&;!!! WINDSHIELD IS REMOOOOVED!!!!!!!! I thought it was just a close fit.
Guess what, windshields must be designed to tolerate more stress on the surface than on the edges!!!!! The side of the screwdriver shaft applied just enough stress to crack the windshield. So I had to remove it and NOW I can access all of the windshield frame I want.........!
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